Pentland Firth

Introduction

Times of high water

Gills Bay: High water is 1 hours and 55 minutes before high water at Wick

Skirza Pier: High water is 1 hours before high water at Wick

Muckle Skerry*: High water is 25 minutes before high water at Wick

Duncansby Head*: High water is 1 hours and 15 minutes before high water at Wick

Bur Wick, South Ronaldsay*: High water is 1 hours before high water at Wick

Stroma*: High water is 1 hours and 15 minutes before high water at Wick

Tidal streams

South west of Dunnet Head, off entrance to Dunnet Bay: The east north-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes before high water at Ullapool. The west south-west going stream begins at 4 hours and 10 minutes after high water at Ullapool. The east north-east going stream reaches a speed of 0.9 knots at springs. The west south-west going stream reaches a speed of 0.4 knots at springs.

Dunnet Head: The east going stream begins at 2 hours and 40 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 3 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 3 knots at springs. During neaps, the tides tend to run for longer.

East of Dunnet Head: An eddy here flows north. Either stay very close to shore or cut corner from Dunnet Head

Halfway between St John's Point and Hoy : The east going stream begins at 4 hours and 20 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 50 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east going stream reaches a speed of 4.6 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 5.5 knots at springs.

St John's Point: The east going stream begins at 4 hours and 20 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 50 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east going stream reaches a speed of 5.5 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 7 knots at springs.. The Men of May tide race forms here during the west-going stream (see notes elsewhere), so it may be best to pass here on the east going tide, ideally in the last hour. However, on the west-going stream, from around high water Aberdeen, a gap between the race and the point opens up, which is used by local boats. By 3 hours and 15 minutes after high water Aberdeen, the race becomes detached from the point, leaving more space for a west-bound passage. There are submerged rocks and breaking seas even in fine weather. Good landing and rest point can be found just to the south.

Inner Sound, south west of Mell Head: The south-east going stream begins at 4 hours and 35 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 50 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The south-east going stream reaches a speed of 5 knots at springs. The north-west going stream reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs. The flow may be faster around the south tip of Stroma.

Mell Head: Rough water.

Inner Sound, East of Ness of Huna: The tide flows east and west. The flow reaches a speed of 4 knots at springs. A race forms off Ness of Huna during the east-going stream. This can be avoided close to the shore. Details of the race off Ness of Duncansby are given with the Duncansby Head streams.

Inner sound: Rough water on east going stream

East of Stroma: The west-going flow splits to go north and south off Tree Geo. Aim north of Tree Geo to avoid being carried south.

Between Stroma and Swona: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east going stream reaches a speed of 9 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs.

The Swilkie tide race: Aim for slack water. Tides pick up very quickly. Very dangerous if Westerly wind and west going tide.

North Head, Swona: The east going stream begins at 4 hours and 25 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 55 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 6 knots at springs. A significant race forms which is violent when wind opposes tide.

Close south of Muckle Skerries: The south-east going stream begins at 4 hours and 30 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 12 knots at springs. The north-west going stream is likely weaker than the south-east going stream.

Duncansby Head: The south-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 5 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs. Rates can be greater than this between The Knee and the mainland. Races form during flow in both directions off the Ness of Duncansby. There is turbulence throughout the south-east stream. The race is especially strong from 4 hours 40 minutes before until 1 hour and 40 minutes before high water at Aberdeen, forming a race called 'The Boars of Duncansby', extending at least a mile north-west of the Ness. The race on the north-west going tidal stream is less severe and strongest from 2 hours 45 minutes until 4 hours 30 minutes after high water at Aberdeen.

Eddy east of Duncansby head: An eddy here flows east.

Duncansby Head: Smoother water found away from the cliffs.

Ness Head: The north going stream begins at 55 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The south going stream begins at 5 hours and 15 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 0.5 knots at springs.

North east side of Stroma*: North of Tree Geo, the flow is continuously northwards due to the eddy that forms on the east-going flow

Between Duncansby Head and the Pentland Skerries*: The south-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 5 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The south-east going stream reaches a speed of 9 knots at springs. The north-west going stream reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs.

Between South Ronaldsay and Muckle Skerry*: The east going stream begins at 4 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 2 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east going stream reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 6 knots at springs. The Liddel Eddy forms south of South Ronaldsay during the east-going flow, eventually restricting this stream to flowing only close north to Muckle Skerry - see specific notes on the Liddel Eddy and the tidal stream atlas. Overfalls form off the north-west coast of Muckle Skerry during the east-going flow.

Liddel Eddy, close to Muckle Skerry*: By 2 hours and 40 minutes before high water at Aberdeen, the Liddel Eddy extend almost the whole way across the channel between South Ronaldsay and Muckle Skerry, with only a weak east-going stream near Muckle Skerry.

Liddel Eddy, mid channel south of South Ronaldsay*: By 4 hours and 40 minutes before high water at Aberdeen, the Liddel Eddy south of South Ronaldsay extends half way across the channel between South Ronaldsay and Muckle Skerry. The eddyline causes heavy overfalls and breaking waves.

Between Muckle Skerry and South Ronaldsay, to the east*: Just east of Muckle Skerry and Old Head, in mid channel: The tide flows east and west. The east going stream reaches a speed of 7 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 6 knots at springs.

Liddel Eddy along south coast of South Ronaldsay*: An eddy here flows west starting 6 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. This eddy, the 'Liddel Eddy' strengthens and progressively extends across the channel between South Ronaldsay and Muckle Skerry. It is firmly established along the coast by 5 hours and 40 minutes before high water at Aberdeen.

Old Head, South Ronaldsay*: The tidal stream here flows south south-west starting 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen reaching a maximum speed of 6 knots at springs. The stream runs for 9 hours. There is no north-going stream. A race forms east and south-east of the Head from around 6 hours and 10 minutes before high water at Aberdeen until 2 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen.

Lother Rock*: Lother Rock is the offshore rock and beacon to the west of Brough Ness. The tidal stream here flows south-east reaching a maximum speed of 8 knots at springs.

Barth Head, South Ronaldsay*: The tide flows south south-east and north north-west. The flow reaches a speed of 4 knots at springs.

Between South Ronaldsay and Swona*: The south south-east going stream begins at 4 hours and 25 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The north north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 55 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 6 knots at springs. Flows may reach 8 kt on the South Ronaldsay side, especially near Lother Rock. This stream separates from and joins the main flow in the Pentland Firth south of Lother Rock, the rock and beacon just to the west of Brough Ness.

Eddy west of Swona*: An eddy here flows east starting 2 hours before high water at Aberdeen. The eddy extends 2 miles west and north-west of Swona, as shown on the chart. The eddyline is marked, a wall of water may form at spring tides.

Eddy east of Swona*: A large eddy forms east of Swona on the east-going flow. This grows to extend 1.75 miles south east of the island, as shown on the chart. Violent races can form at the north and south ends of the island where this eddy meets the main stream.

Lother Eddy*: During the north-going flow between Swona and South Ronaldsay, an eddy forms on the south east cost of Ronaldsay. The eddy flows into Bur Wick and south along the west side of Lother Rock (the rock and beacon to the west of Brough Ness), causing a violent race to form south west of Lother Rock where the eddy meets the main flow.

South coast of South Walls*: The east north-east going stream begins at 4 hours and 25 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west south-west going stream begins at 4 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east north-east going stream reaches a speed of 4.5 knots at springs. The west south-west going stream reaches a speed of 3 knots at springs. The early west-going flow is caused by an eddy that extends half to 3/4 mile offshore.

Brims Ness*: Brims Ness is the point to the south end of the peninsula on the west side of Aith Hope. The tide turns west earlier here than at Tor Ness due to eddy flows along the south coast of South Walls: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 3 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 7 knots at springs. Overfalls form here.

Tor Ness, Hoy*: The east going stream begins at 4 hours and 35 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 50 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 6.5 knots at springs. A race forms here from around high water at Aberdeen until around 4 hours after high water at Aberdeen.

Between South Walls and Swona*: In the main channel, away from inshore eddies: The east north-east going stream begins at 4 hours and 25 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west south-west going stream begins at 2 hours before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 5 knots at springs.

Between Holborn Head and Dunnet Head, offshore*: The north-east going stream begins at 2 hours and 50 minutes before high water at Ullapool. The south-west going stream begins at 4 hours and 40 minutes after high water at Ullapool. The north-east going stream reaches a speed of 1.1 knots at springs. The south-west going stream reaches a speed of 1.8 knots at springs.

Eddy west of Dunnet Head*: An eddy forms to the west of Dunnet head such that the flow here is almost continuously north and north-east. This stream can cause large waves off Briga Head and confused seas off Dunnet Head.

3 miles north of St. Johns Point*: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 15 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 7 knots at springs. A large and dangerous tide race, the Merry Men of Men, forms off St Johns Point during the west-going stream and grows to extend across the entirety of the Pentland Firth to Tor Ness. The most violent part is over a sand waves around 3.5 miles west of Stroma. The pilots warn that small craft should avoid this race. With a westerly swell, the race can be dangerous even for large vessels, the MV Cemfjord, a 83 metre long vessel foundering here suddenly in 2015. The race forms a liquid breakwater, such that the Firth itself can be fairly smooth to the east of the race. All times in the description are relative to high water at Aberdeen. At -1:50, the race forms off the Men of May rocks, a set of drying rocks just off St Johns Point. Initially, it extends to the west, but then starts to extend north-north west from a shallow area 1.5 miles north-west of the Point. By +2:00, heavy breaking seas extend all the way across the Firth to Tor Ness, even when the weather is fine. From +3:15, the race becomes detached from Men of May Rocks, leaving an area of flatter water north of St Johns Point, which slowly becomes wider. The north west end of the race at Tor Point only begins to subside at +4:35, with the race at mid channel only subsiding when the flow turns east. Te race does not form during the east-going stream.

Tails of the Tarf, Swona*: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east going stream reaches a speed of 9 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs. Races form here, south-east of the Tails of the Tarf on the east-going stream and south-west on the west-going stream, as shown on the chart.

Swilkie Point, Stroma*: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 5 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west going stream begins at 1 hours and 20 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The east going stream reaches a speed of 9 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 8 knots at springs. A violent tide race, The Swilkie, forms here during most states of the tide. The race is turbulent as eddies around Stroma meet the main flow.

Eddy east of Stroma*: An eddy forms to the east of Stroma during the main east-going flow, extending around a mile to the east of the island.

West side of Stroma*: The eddy to the west side of Stroma causes a north-going flow along the west side of the island.

Eddy west of Stroma*: An eddy forms to the west of Stroma during the west-going stream, extending 2.75 miles west-north-west of the island.

Eddies on south side of Inner Sound*: An eddy forms here, with the following flows: The tide flows east south-east and west north-west. The flow reaches a speed of 1 knots at springs.

Eddies on south coast of Stroma*: An eddy forms here, with the following flows: The tide flows east and west. The flow reaches a speed of 1 knots at springs.

Eddy south-east of Pentland Skerries*: During the south-east going stream, an eddy forms south-east of the Pentland Skerries, which eventually extends 3 miles east-south east. The speed of flow in the eddy is less than 1.5 knots.

Eddy north of Pentland Skerries*: During the north-west and west-going stream, an eddy forms to the north of the line of skerries south-east of Muckle Skerry, extending about halfway across the channel between these islands and Muckle Skerry. There is no substantive eddy north-west of Muckle Skerry.

Middle of Pentland Firth, north of Dunnet Head*: The east south-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 15 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The west north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 10 minutes before high water at Aberdeen. The flow reaches a speed of 3.3 knots at springs.

Eddy on south coast of South Walls*: A west-going eddy forms here during the last of the east-going flow.

Eddy in Freswick Bay*: An eddy here flows north starting 4 hours and 40 minutes after high water at Aberdeen. The eddy runs for 9 hours.

Eddy on south side of Muckle Skerry*: An eddy forms here during the south-east going flow. This can be useful for getting to the upstream end of the island prior to starting a crossing.

Notes

Access/Egress

Dwarwick Pier: (ND 207 712) g

Brough: (ND 221 741) g Limited parking

Scarfskerry: (ND 259 746) g Limited parking

Wester Haven (Harrow): (ND 283 743) g Very limited parking, if any.

Gills Bay: (ND 328 730) g Landing on east of harbour (outside), rocky beach

Harbour on south coast of Stroma: (ND 352 763) g

Geo of Nethertown, Stroma: (ND 358 785) g

John O'Groats: (ND 379 735) g Plenty parking

The Haven, Swona: (ND 393 851) g Likely the best get out if you are visiting Swona. Beware of feral cattle on the island.

Skirza Pier: (ND 387 680) g Limited parking next to house.

Freswick Bay: (ND 378 676) g Very little parking

Nybster: (ND 371 635) g Lots of parking, maybe a long walk.

Keiss Pier: (ND 351 609) g

Keiss beach: (ND 344 601) g

Burwick*: (ND 438 840) g Plenty of parking in large lay-bys near the ferry terminal. Launch by ferry terminal.

South Walls Coast Path car park*: (ND 292 893) g Small parking area at west end of the island, from which the sea to the north and south can be accessed.

Suggested trips

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