Guernsey is a short crossing on the high speed ferry from Poole. Although the place feels somewhat British, it does have a different feel to it... and the weather is often better! The island feels densely populated, and parking places near the shore can get busy in summer. However, once on the water, this ceases to matter, as you explore the stunning south coast or the quiet islands of Herm and Sark. Fast tidal streams make this a somewhat committing place to paddle, but sunny skies and friendly people conspire to make paddling here seem less serious than perhaps it should.
St. Peter Port: High water is 5 minutes after high water at St. Helier
The fastest streams run in the Little Russel between Guernsey and Herm and in the Big Russel between Herm and Sark. Elsewhere, eddies and inshore effects can make the flow more complex. The flow atlases in the back of the Imray / RCC pilot book are invaluable if you want the full details.
North coast of Guernsey: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 40 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The west going stream begins at 15 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The flow reaches a speed of 1 knots at springs. The west going stream is weak until 3 hours and 50 minutes after high water at St.Helier.
Little Russel by St Sampson: The north north-east going stream begins at 2 hours and 30 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The south south-west going stream begins at 3 hours and 30 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The flow reaches a speed of 5.2 knots at springs. Overfalls may form: Off Fort Doyle at the north-east tip of Guernsey, near Roustal Beacon and south-west of Brehon Tower. The flows may reach 6 knots around the Brehon Tower, with eddies forming behind the rocks. Small tidal races may form off the east side of the islands of Homptole, Houmet Paradis and Houmet Benest, all situated near the north tip of Guernsey. The flow is rather less away from the narrow and shallow part of the channel between Roustel and Brehon.
Off St. Peter Port: Off White Rock Pier: The south going stream begins at 2 hours and 20 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The north going stream begins at 5 hours before high water at St. Helier. The flow reaches a speed of 0.8 knots at springs. Because of eddies, the north going stream begins 1:45 earlier and the south going stream 0:45 earlier than the streams further offshore.
Inshore between St. Peter Port and St. Martin's Point: An eddy forms here, with the following flows: The north going stream begins at 5 hours before high water at St. Helier. The south going stream begins at at high water at St. Helier.
South end of Little Russel: Offshore between St. Peter Port and St. Martin's Point: The north going stream begins at 2 hours and 40 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The south going stream begins at 3 hours and 50 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The north-east going stream builds quickly after the tide turns.
South-east coast of Jethou: The north-east going stream begins at 3 hours before high water at St. Helier. The south-west going stream begins at 3 hours and 30 minutes after high water at St. Helier. Fast streams run close inshore. There are shallow areas with overfalls south-east of Jethou between the Fourquies buoy and the Lower Heads buoy.
Percee Passage: Between Herm and Jethou: The south-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 30 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The north-west going stream begins at 3 hours and 30 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The south-east going stream reaches a speed of 5 knots at springs. The north-west going stream reaches a speed of 0.5 knots at springs. The south-east going stream also runs from Herm harbour to the point opposite Jethou.
East coast of Herm: The north going stream begins at 2 hours before high water at St. Helier. The south going stream begins at 4 hours after high water at St. Helier. The flow reaches a speed of 3 knots at springs. Progress can be made against the tide by using numerous eddies close inshore. Large overfalls can from around Noire Pute, a rock 1 mile offshore.
The Humps: Among The Humps, an area of islands and drying rocks to the north of Sark: The north north-east going stream begins at 3 hours before high water at St. Helier. The south south-west going stream begins at 3 hours and 30 minutes after high water at St. Helier. . These times are approximate. Around 6 hours before high water at St. Helier, the flow runs more south-eastwards. Around 3 hours and 15 minutes after high water at St. Helier, there may be a westwards flow through the area, rather than a true slack water. The tidal streams run quickly through the channels, creating overfalls in places.
Offshore Saint Martin's Point: About a mile and a half south of the Point: The east north-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 10 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The west south-west going stream begins at 2 hours after high water at St. Helier. The east north-east going stream reaches a speed of 3.2 knots at springs. The west south-west going stream reaches a speed of 2.4 knots at springs.
Between St. Martins Point and Petit Bot: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 50 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The west going stream begins at 15 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The flow reaches a speed of 3 knots at springs. A race forms off St. Martin's point. The tidal stream is strongest just after high water and low water at St. Helier.
Eddy between St. Martin's Point and Icart Point: An eddy forms in the bay between the points.
Eddy in Icart Bay: An eddy forms within the bay.
Between Petit Bot and Pleinmont: The east going stream begins at 5 hours and 50 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The west going stream begins at 10 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The east going stream reaches a speed of 2.4 knots at springs. The west going stream reaches a speed of 0.5 knots at springs.
South of Pleinmont: The south-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 15 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The north-west going stream begins at 1 hours and 45 minutes before high water at St. Helier.
North of Pleinmont Point: The north-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 50 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The south-west going stream begins at 10 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The south-west going stream here begins as an inshore eddy, with the main flow starting 2 hours and 50 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The north-east going stream is weak.
Between Jersey and Limo: The tide flows north north-east and south south-west. The flow reaches a speed of 5 knots at springs. The channel dries to about 0.5m.
West of Lihou: The tide flows north north-east and south south-west. The flow reaches a speed of 5 knots at springs.
Off Fort Hommet: The tidal stream here flows east north-east starting 5 hours and 30 minutes before high water at St. Helier.
West coast of Guernsey: The north-east going stream begins at 5 hours and 30 minutes after high water at St. Helier. The south-west going stream begins at 10 minutes before high water at St. Helier. The north-east going flow may reach 1 knot inshore, away from salient points. The south-west going flow is weak.
St Peter Port: Marine traffic can be very busy in the vicinity of the harbour. Monitoring Port Control on VHF 12 when in the vicinity is a good idea. Entry and exit from the harbour is controlled by a set of 'traffic lights' - do not proceed if 3 red lights are showing.
Saints Bay Harbour: (-) g Slipway, with a small amount of parking on the harbour wall. The slipway is steep - with swell running, an alternative launch point at the back of the bay may be preferable.
Petit Bot: (-) g Ramp from road onto beach. Rather limited parking.
Rocquaine Bay, Portelat Harbour: (-) g Ramp onto beach from road. Roadside parking. Further parking (and launch options) to the east of here.
Rocquaine Bay south end: (-) g Ramps lead from the road down to the beach. Parking above the beach to the east, and by Portelat harbour to the west.
Fort Grey: (-) g Slipways onto the beach either side of the causeway to the fort. Parking on the road or across the road at Guernsey Pearl. Long walk at low tide.
Between Rocquaine and l'Eree Bays: (-) g Slipway, parking area just to the north. Better at high water, although a channel runs to this point on the chart.
L'Eree Beach south: (-) g Car park by the beach
L'Eree Beach North: (-) g Car park by the beach
Lihou Headland: (-) g The Prosperity Memorial Car Park is near the end of the road, from where the tidal causeway runs to Lihou Island. The causeway dries to around 2.8m.
Fort Saumarez: (-) g Small parking area next to slipway onto beach.
La Claire Mare: (-) g Small parking area next to slipway leading onto a rocky beach. Best at high water. More parking on the small point 400m to the east.
Perelle Bay central slip: (-) g Slipway, with roadside parking nearby. Better at high water, although a deeper water channel may extend into the bay to the north from here. There can be surf on a reef break to the south of the bay.
Vazon Bay, surf school: (-) g Slipway leading onto the beach, better at high water to avoid a long carry, ideally with tide greater than 4m (however, this location is likely better than other car parks further south at lower tides). Several parking options: just up Rue des Goddards opposite, to the north of the cafe and on a field opposite the cafe, with further parking to the south by the tower.
Vazon Bay north: (-) g Car park with ramp leading onto beach. Small additional car park just to the west.
Cobo Bay, Le Guet: (-) g Slipway onto beach, with parking and public toilets. Further parking just to the north east. Better with tidal levels higher than 2.5m, at low water, Grande Rocque, just to the north, may be better.
Cobo Bay, Village centre: (-) g Slipway leading onto beach. Some small parking places nearby. Likely better to use the car parks further south on the Bay.
Grande Rocque: (-) g Parking area along the beach, with a larger car park at the north end near the beach kiosk. Unlike many launch points on the west coast, this location may be OK at lower water, the carry should be fairly short with 2m of tide or more.
Port Soif west: (-) g Parking area on the western headland with access to the beach.
Port Soif east: (-) g Two car parks near the beach at the eastern end, one on the headland and the other just to the east with a kiosk.
Portinfer: (-) g Parking area by beach. The Bay is known for its surf.
Les Vardes: (-) g Parking area and small boatyard. A long slipway leads down from the boatyard, making access easier at lower tides.
Port Grat: (-) g Slipway leading onto the beach, adjacent to a small parking area. Additional parking just to the west.
Rousse Point: (-) g A long slipway extends down from the car park on the north-east tip of the point, which should allow access to the sea at most states of the tide. Other car parks to the south and west. May be possible to launch on the west side at higher water.
Chouet Bay: (-) g Slipway onto beach, with parking nearby. Worth checking in case sand racing is being held on the beach.
Baie de la Joanneuse: (-) g Small bay just to the west of L'Ancresse Bay with a parking area. May be a shorter carry at low tide.
L'Ancresse Bay, Pembroke Beach: (-) g Plenty of parking, ramp on to beach. Carry may be long at low water. Surf in a northerly swell, although this is normally larger to the eastern end of the bay.
L'Ancresse Bay east: (-) g Car park with path down to beach. Parking along the beach to the west, with ramp onto beach. Surf in northerly swell, larger here than at the western side of the Bay. If red flags are displayed on the tower to the east then the rifle range is being used.
Fort Doyle: (-) g Parking area, with access to the sea to the north (may be exposed to swell). Also possible to get to the beach to the east with a short carry.
Bordeaux north beach: (-) g Car park by beach. May be a good option at low water.
Bordeaux Harbour Slipway: (-) g Long slipway with parking adjacent. Further parking in the Bordeaux Beach car park just to the south. Fairly easy access at all states of the tide, with the choice of using the slipway or the beach.
St. Sampson north beach: (-) g Car park with access to a shingle beach. Easier parking than in the town itself, and a simple enough launch at high water. If you return at low water, it's worth using the Mont Crevelt slipway and walking round the harbour to retrieve the car.
St. Sampson north side: (-) g Slipway down to beach in drying harbour. Busy roadside parking nearby. Dries to around 4.3m. Only viable launch point within the harbour outside the marina sill. The launch points outside the harbour are likely better options.
St. Sampson Mont Crevelt: (-) g This slipway is located just to the south of, and outside, the harbour entrance. Few options to park nearby (may be parking along the south side of the harbour), but this is a much better option at low water than the access points to the north. The road past the industrial area is quiet enough to allow easy dropping off of boats.
Halfway: (-) g Small car park by the beach, about halfway (!) between St. Peter Port and St. Sampsons. At low water, may be a carry of up to 300m.
Marais: (-) g Small car park in the bay to the north of St. Peter Port. Ramp down to beach. May be a carry at low water, although a deeper water channel leads to this launch point.
St. Peter Port, Salerie: (-) g Large car park at the north end of the harbour, with slipway into small drying harbour area. The end of the slipway dries to around 5.1 meters - at low water, there may be a carry of up to 300m to the sea.
St. Peter Port, Havelet Beach: (-) g The Beach has slipways onto it at both north and south ends. There is parking above the bay, but it is restricted to a short stay - parking may be less restricted further east towards La Vallette.
La Vallette: (-) g Slipway leading down to beach. Adjacent parking above beach. Usable at all states of the tide. Can be busy in summer - arrive early.
Herm Harbour: (-) g This is the best place to land on Herm. Although the tourist boats use Rosiere Steps to the south at low water, there is very limited space there.
Herm: It's well worth making the trip to Herm from Guernsey if conditions permit. Your departure point will depend on the tides, but Saint Sampson provides a short crossing and there are places to leave a car near Chateau de Vale. Crossing the Little Russel with its 5 knot tidal streams is entertaining - you will be convinced that the Brehon tower is moving sideways. Away from the narrows, the stream is less swift, making longer crossings from the north or south a bit less dramatic. The coasts of Herm and Jethou are well worth exploring. If possible, head out the Humps north of Herm - a tangle of drying Islands and channels.
Herm is administered by Herm Island Ltd who arrange all accommodation on the island, including the campsite. Phone them ahead of arrival: 01481 750000. The campsite is pleasant, if expensive, and there's a pub if you decide to stay over.
Guernsey South Coast: The best cliff scenery on Guernsey can be found on the south coast, with our personal highlight being the area around Petit Bot. There is a limited range of options for launching and landing, and it would be wise to arrive early at many spots to guarantee a parking space. The west part of the coast has a number of reefs necessitating detours offshore.
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